Gujarat Cycle Ride

I started my first solo long cycle ride (Till then I rode only typically 100 km around Mumbai) on 28 Sept 2023 morning from Ahmedabad, Gujarat.


28th Sept(Day 1):

Started my Journey from Ahmedabad station (at around 0700hrs) and reached Sabarmati Gandhi Ashram, from there I cycled to the Thol bird sanctuary and then started my ride towards Modhera. Due to the block in the main road, I had to cycle along the Narmada main canal and experience the full heat of Gujarat. I had to take short breaks at temples or under some tree to refresh myself. Towards evening it started to get dark quickly and soon I had to ride in full darkness with no sign of humans for nearly an hour. First day of my solo ride, in a new place and in complete darkness, did scare me a bit. During the last 20 mins of the ride, two youngsters on a bike accompanied me till I reached up to Modhera at around 1930hrs. Last few hours of my ride made me realize how valuable are my 400 lumen headlight and the bright tail blinker. I enjoyed the lovely hospitality of the Gujarathis the first day itself. They were so welcoming and provide a place in temples to relax and refresh. It was a very touching experience when many vendors refused to accept money for chilled water bottles and juice packs. Many small tea shops insisted on having tea and offered a place to relax as an appreciation that I am cycling through their land. I tried my best to pay them but I failed. The youngsters who accompanied me till I reached Modhera didn't leave until I got the room to relax. This first day experience of hospitality continued throughout my entire journey in Gujarat. The total distance covered on day 1 was 112 km.

Sabarmati Ashram

Thol Bird Sanctuary

Thol Bird Sanctuary

Day 1

29th Sept (Day 2):

Visited the World Heritage (tentative) Modhera Sun Temple at 7:30 AM. The sculptures and the greatness of Chalukya architecture was mesmerizing. I spent quite some time there and started my ride to the next World Heritage site Rani ki Vav, Patan, at around 10:30 AM. It was a very hot day but the roads were good. The highway was under construction and for most of the distance, only half the road was open. As I was nearing Rani ki Vav (approx 2 km ahead), I met an interesting person Dhrumil Patel on bike who introduced himself as a cyclist and has a battery cycle. I reached Rani ki Vav whose surroundings were beautified with plush green lawns. I laid down under the shade of a big tree on the lawn and slept for 45 mins before exploring the beautiful architecture of the step well. The step well was filled with amazing sculptures and different patterns. It inevitably reflected the rich wealth, and the brilliance of the sculptors and architects of that time. There is no wonder why this masterpiece is listed as a World Heritage site. While leaving the step well, I saw a message from Dhrumil that he arrived at the step well with his battery cycle and was waiting at the entrance. It was really touching to know that he was waiting for hours to show me another wonderful site, Sahastra-Linga (Thousand Lingas), which was close to Rani ki Vav. We became friends instantly and rode together along the heritage road to Sahastra-Linga. Sahastra Linga, a big reservoir and waterways probably designed to purify the water. The way the water was guided through a huge circular reservoir to the purification unit (or maybe reverse) was amazing. I was curious to know the purifying mechanism but failed to construct the schematic from the dilapidated ruins. Thankfully Dhrumil informed me that the structure was used for water purification and this helped me to create some rough image of the system from the ruins. Then we visited a Temple which was still under construction and located on top of Patan. One gets a good view of Patan from there. Noticing that I am already tired, Dhrumil got a good comfortable hotel in the modern market area of Patan and next we both had an authentic Gujarati filter coffee (Surprised!! Me too). Not even in my wildest dream did I expect that I can have a traditional filter coffee in Gujarat. Dhrumil explained to me about Patel's Rajwadi chai, a big chain all over Gujarat and famous for their hot beverages, and with that we parted. I reached the reception of the hotel with myself overloaded with the pannier bags, helmet, pump etc and met Mr. Lateef who is caretaker of the laundry services in all main hotels at Patan. After being updated with my cycling endeavors, Lateef expressed his feeling towards the cyclists that it makes him happy whenever he spots a cyclist. He insisted on having dinner with him and we chatted about many things (of course a lot about cycling!). Filled with the joy of gaining new friends, I called for the day to have a good night sleep. The total distance covered on day 2 was 51 km.

Modhera Sun Temple

Modhera Sun Temple

Rani ki Vav

Rani ki Vav

Sahastra-Linga (with Dhrumil)

Patel Rajwadi Chaai (Dhrumil)

Dinner with Lateef

Day 2

30th Sept (Day 3):

I started the ride from Patan at 0630hrs and after nearly 40km ride in a lonely place between the villages Dadar and Kamalpura, my rear tyre got punctured and one spoke broken. I was already warned by a gentleman (who offered me a chilled water bottle and juice) from an earlier village that this patch of road (nearly 5 km) will be bad. Well, I was careful but still it happened. I rode ahead for nearly 4km with pumped air and reached Kamalpura. With the help of villagers and school children, the puncture was fixed. I conveyed my thanks to the saviours, and rode to Radhanpur (nearby town) which was 20 km away. I had to ride slow due to the broken spoke and found a good cycle shop named Raja cycle. Mr. Vijay, the owner and an amazing person fixed the broken spoke (Decathlon Triban size spoke was not available and so the technician took a long spoke and bent it to the required size and fixed it! Thanks to Indian Jugad!). Mr. Vijay offered to have tea with him and didn't charge me for anything. Even after my repeated request he simply refused mentioning we are the cyclists who promote cycling and he feels happy to help me. Cherished by the support received from the lovely hearts from different corners, I rode from Radhanpur to Bamnoli on the toll highway. I took a halt there since it was already 6:30 PM and was getting dark. The hiccups during my ride of the day did cost me some time and I had to reschedule my plan. My initial plan was to ride up to Shantalpur (20 km from Bamnoli) so that I can start the desert ride the next day early in the morning itself. Instead, the next day, I decided to ride up to Shantalpur and take a break for a day. The total distance covered on day 3 was 92 km.

Kamalpura people and school students who helped me fix the puncture

 

Sh. Vijay, owner of Raja Cycles, Radhanpur

Sh. Vijay, Raja Cycles, Radhanpur

 

Day 3

1st Oct (Day 4):

This day I had to ride only till Shantalpur, so started my ride relaxedly at around 0830 hrs from Bamanoli and reached Hotel Prince Palase, Shantalpur (Yes! Palase and probably they meant Palace!). This is a minimal hotel on the highway with no sign of modern amenities. I decided to take a halt there and for the whole day I rested and roamed in and around the hotel. The interesting thing I noticed there was a running LED display mentioning "ATM available" in three languages, Gujarathi, Hindi and English. I searched around but could not locate the ATM. When enquired, the manager pointed me to the adjacent pan shop (visibly the shop had everything other than pan!). When I asked the young lad in the shop, he said "Bhaiya aayenge phir milega" (My brother will come and then you can get money). Later I was educated that there is no automation in the mentioned ATM (Automated Teller Machine) and the money was handed to me by the "Bhaiya" after I transferred money to his account using upi (unified payment interface). In fact, I searched the map for a real ATM and the nearest one was 35km away. The total distance covered on day 4 was 17 km.

 

Hotel Prince Palace

 

Day 4

2nd Oct (Day 5):

I started from Shantalpur in the morning around 0615 hrs, exited the highway and cycled deep into the Shantalpur village. I Followed the route suggested by Google Maps and reached a mud road. Looking at me, some village women pointed to the road ahead and said there is water logging up to hip level and I cannot ride through (In fact, they spoke in Gujarathi with a lot of expressions that I could understand). With the support and advice from the villagers I reached an elevated under-construction road (Well! after crossing a small piece of marshy land but much better than venturing through a water logged area levelled up to my hip). The patch of the under-construction road I entered was a mud road which got transformed into a road made of loose stones after nearly 3 to 4 kms. I had no option other than dragging my cycle for the next 3 km till a freshly laid tarmac road appeared in front. This road roughly extended straight up to 17 km approx and that was the patch of desert land. To my surprise there was a good amount of water on both sides. Later I understood that in a few months from then, the water will dry up and the desert land will appear. This also means I missed the white desert! The salt desert! But this didn't disappoint me because the entire stretch was filled with a different variety of migratory birds (big and small, black and white, all living together). Most of the stretch it was only me and the flock of migratory birds (with few of them flying close to me and probably surprised why can't I fly too!). After this wonderful journey I took a short break at an army camp and filled my water bottles (I have already reached close to the Pakistan border which is 40 km approx from there). Next I reached Bela Fort and the village surrounding it. This fort is made up of yellow stones and even the houses were built with yellow stones. With the help of three children, I ventured into the fort but could not climb the wall due to thorny bushes and snakes. This fort was unknown to many and was damaged significantly during the 2001 Gujarat earthquake (I located this fort by spot hunting on Google map). From Bela, I reached Balsar, had my lunch and a short nap, and started my journey to Amrapur (The first village in Khadir island amidst the Lake of Kutch). I had to cycle again through a wet desert and was greeted by the migratory birds flocking above me and making patterns. I also witnessed patches of white desert (though it was still wet and I couldn't walk through). I reached Amrapur and took a stay at Dholavira home-stay. Mr. Bharat, the owner of the property and a cricketer, welcomed me and offered me room at a reasonable price. After dinner, I cycled back to the white desert to have the view of the moon rise under pitch dark. The total distance covered on day 5 was 100 km.

Desert road, Shantalpur

Migratory Birds

Bela Fort

Children who helped me to explore Bela Fort

White desert (under formation), Lake of Kutch

Reflection of moon on Lake of Kutch with Jupiter

Day 5

Day 5: Moon view ride

3rd Oct (Day 6):

Morning I cycled again to white desert to have the view of sunrise and after returning noticed the spoke fixed at Radhanpur came out of the hole along with another broken spoke. Mr. Bharat took me on his bike to an interesting spot named "Chippar Point", flat pieces of rock protruding out of the cliff into the bank of the Kutch lake beneath. I thanked Mr. Bharat for his generosity and cycled to Dholavira, the last village of the Khadir island. Got a stay at Dholavira Heritage Home stay run by Mr. Nitin and his family. After dropping my pannier bags and a little bit of rest, I cycled to Indus Valley Civilization (Dholavira), the UNESCO Heritage Archaeological site. The astonishing fact is the conservation of water and its reuse by that civilization which existed 3000 to 4000 years before. The seismic resistant walls and the water channelling system were so advanced. Enthralled with the marvel of this civilization, I left the site and took a break at a small shop for a cool drink. There I noticed the number of broken spokes of the rear wheel had increased to four and this brought my cycling journey to an end. Later in the evening Mr. Nitin took me on his bike to fossil park, another masterpiece I found at Dholavira. The hill was made of lava rock and has submerged many fossils (ageing back to Jurassic period). The feeling and the touch of fossils that were not extracted was amazing. Next we visited a small temple, enjoyed the sunset and ended the day happily. The total distance covered on day 5 was 44 km.

 

Early Morning

Chippar point

 

Indus Valley Civilization

 

Lava hill

 

Fossils trapped under molten lava

 

Fossil

 

Sunset

 

Day 6

 

Day 6

  4th/5th Oct (Day 7/8):

Carried the cycle on top of a bus from Dholavira and reached Bhuj. I travelled with my limping horse, on top of the bus through the "Road to Heaven". Later, the bus had some problems and stopped nearly 15km ahead of Bhuj. A kind police man had pity on my condition and helped me to get a space in a mini truck, which dropped me close to Bhuj railway station (Again the truck driver refused to charge me for the ride!). From Bhuj I travelled by train to Ahmedabad, fixed my cycle there and returned to Mumbai.

My Day out in Mumbai Got the flavour of Mumbai travel in my own way. An experience worth remembering but not to be repeated ;-)
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Task: To receive my uncle from a village close to Kalyan at around 4:30 PM, 20 June 2012.

Reached Mankhurd station at 3:30 PM (Thanks to rickshaw walas of Anushakti nagar. I had to wait for more than 20 mins). As usual long queue at the counter and finally boarded the train at around 3:50 PM. Able to find a comfortable seat and as usual got buried into deep thoughts. As expected, missed Kurla station where I have to get train to Kalyan but reached two stations ahead, GTB nagar. Then had to wait for 10 mins to get the return train and finally reached kurla at around 4:35 PM. While waiting for the train to Kalyan, at around 4:45 PM I saw a huge mass of people moving fast on tracks. Suddenly they stopped moving when they came close to me. Only then I found there was a poor train buried inside them. I realized by then I can never reach Kalyan. Surprisingly the "Spirit of Mumbai" worked then. My fellow Mumbaites seeing my poor condition decided to help. Suddenly a tunnel developed amidst that huge mass made up of humans large enough to fit my size exactly. The tunnel closed from back side as I moved in and reached some dead end whose coordinates with respect to train are beyond my knowledge. I dared to look ahead and found a smiling face so close and enquired helplessly

 "When will this reach Kalyan?"

With a big grin the face answered

 "Don't worry! Still lot of time!"

 That bright face which I am unsure whether it belongs to any human body since I am unable attach any human body around with that tilt angle and position of the face. In fact the faces around outnumbered the bodies. I asked again to that mystical bodiless face

"How long this crowd will remain?"

With a lot of care in eyes the face answered

 "Relax! Just after two stations the train will be almost empty"

I started to analyse the motion of the train based on inertial laws taught to me from school days judging the arrival of that "Second station Salvation". The second station arrived much longer than I anticipated or probably the time got terribly dilated due to strong stink of sweat. The train never reached the stage of "almost empty". However now I can see daylight through some gaps and a thin body associated to that bright face clearing my doubts. I guess the comfort I experienced through the rest of my journey must be more than spending a holiday in a yacht at Caribbean island. Finally I reached the much awaited Kalyan station. Hired a rickshaw, went to the village where my uncle was eagerly waiting and brought him to Kalyan station. Then started the second part of the story...

 The return train was not that empty as I predicted but in comparison to my onward journey the prediction was not that bad either. I can comfortably stand but my uncle was not. The "Sprit of Mumbai" provided him a seat and made sure he was comfort enough. The train reached Kurla unbelievably faster than I can presume. Probably when you are experiencing the lifeline of Mumbai you can never correlate the duration with the spin of earth and your watch appears faulty. We got down at Kurla station and my cell phone buzzed. My wife on other side

 "Where are you?"

 "We just got down at Kurla"

"Okay! Take care!"

Next we saw a huge mass moving up the foot over bridge (FOB) with no legs visible defying the laws of gravity. We decided to join the mass since no other option was viable. The mass after reaching the top dispersed in all directions like water from a sprinkler. We stopped amidst and enquired a bypasser, the way which enable us to reach Chembur since it was pre decided from Kurla we will fetch a rickshaw back to home.

"Go straight and get down from left side"

We obeyed and found our self in another platform with no sign of EXIT. Again we asked a bypasser

"Where is the EXIT?"

"Oh! You got down the wrong side. Instead of getting down from left walk through the path way in right and that will get you out of station"

We did the same and indeed he was correct. We came out into a dark place with no sign of any technological miracles we developed past two centuries. Again we asked a bypasser (rather he was the only human we can see in that remote place)

"Where can we get a rickshaw?"

"You won't get rickshaw from here. Climb up again. Instead of turning right get down from left and walk straight and climb up the next FOB which will lead you to an EXIT from where you can fetch rickshaw"

 I picked up the baggage again and started climbing. My uncle patiently asked me,

 "Have you never been to this station?"

 I didn't dare to upgrade him with the knowledge of the number of times I had been to this station accompanied by my friends or my dear wife, rather resorted

"I am confused"

We got down from the infamous left side stairs the second time and walked straight. Climbed up the next FOB after reaching the top I was glad to see the dead end on right side and the far left the "EXIT" sign board. We got out and I was filled with joy to see rickshaws plying. I caught a smart young guy probably a college student and asked

 "Where is the rickshaw stand?"

He read my face for a moment and asked

 "Where do you want to go?"

 "Chembur"

"You got down at the wrong side. You need to get out from the other side of the station"

 "Won't a rickshaw take us to Chembur from here?"

 "No"

 He is indeed correct and the only option is to walk back the path which led us to this meet this intelligent guy who can read my face and find our way to reach the "other side". The boy understood the situation and helped us again. Pointing a FOB, he said

"Climb up! Walk straight and get down the other side! Don't turn anywhere else"

I think he had to mention the last sentence after reading my face. Thankfully we followed his advice walking towards the "other side". My cell phone buzzed again and then I heard the familiar voice enquiring from other end

 "Where are you now?"

 "Kurla"

 "WHAT? STILL IN KURLA?"

"Trying to find our way out of Kurla station"

"Why? Any problem?"

 "Nothing! Will let you know when we reach home! Bye"

 "Okay! Bye!"

At last we reached the "other end". Next we got our turn to fetch a rickshaw to home after spending ten minutes in a queue. While standing in queue I recollected once my friend quoted

 "In Bombay half of your life time goes in travelling and one fourth goes in queues"

If I go by his statement, then with respect to my scale of happenings, I need at least two life times to do something else other than these. Finally we got the rickshaw and we were half the way traveling, my uncle suddenly asked with suspicion,

 "Are we going in the right direction"

 This time I decided to answer the truth,

"I hope so! Bombay rickshaw walas are smarter! They know all places"

 I was correct this time. Very soon I was able to see familiar places and finally reached our sweet home at 10:00 PM. Explained the adventures to my dear wife who burst out laughing hearing the story.